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The First Ascent of the West Wall of Changabang: A Thrilling Mountaineering Adventure

Timothy Ward

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The Shining Mountain: The first ascent of the West Wall of Changabang

by Peter Boardman

4.6 out of 5

Language	:	English
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In 1975, a team of British climbers made the first ascent of the West Wall of Changabang, one of the most challenging and dangerous peaks in the Himalayas. The expedition was led by Chris Bonington, one of the most experienced mountaineers of his generation. The team also included Joe Tasker, Peter Boardman, and Mick Burke, all of whom were world-class climbers.

The West Wall of Changabang is a sheer face of rock, ice, and snow that rises to a height of over 6,800 meters (22,300 feet). The wall is so steep that it is almost impossible to climb directly up it. Instead, the climbers had to find a route that would allow them to traverse the wall from side to side, using a combination of climbing techniques and fixed ropes.

The expedition was fraught with danger. The climbers were constantly exposed to rockfall, avalanches, and altitude sickness. They also had to contend with extreme weather conditions, including high winds, snow, and rain.

Despite the challenges, the team persevered and eventually reached the summit of Changabang on August 14, 1975. The ascent was a major triumph for British mountaineering and remains one of the most impressive climbing feats ever achieved.

The Climbers

The team of climbers who made the first ascent of the West Wall of Changabang were all experienced mountaineers with a proven track record of success.

Chris Bonington was the leader of the expedition. He was one of the most experienced mountaineers of his generation and had already led successful expeditions to Everest, Annapurna, and other Himalayan peaks.
Joe Tasker was a world-class climber known for his technical skill and determination. He had previously made the first ascent of the South Face of Kangchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world.
Peter Boardman was another highly skilled climber with a reputation for being fearless and resourceful. He had previously made the first ascent of the North Face of the Eiger, one of the most challenging climbs in the Alps.
Mick Burke was a strong and experienced climber who had previously made the first ascent of the North Face of Mount Everest.

The Route

The route that the climbers took up the West Wall of Changabang was a complex and challenging one. They had to traverse the wall from side to side, using a combination of climbing techniques and fixed ropes.

The first section of the climb was a steep and icy couloir. The climbers had to use ice axes and crampons to ascend the couloir, and they were constantly exposed to rockfall and avalanches.

After the couloir, the climbers reached a series of rock bands. The rock was loose and unstable, and the climbers had to be careful not to dislodge any rocks that could fall on their teammates.

The final section of the climb was a steep and exposed snowfield. The climbers had to use ropes to protect themselves from falling, and they were constantly exposed to high winds and cold temperatures.

The Summit

The climbers reached the summit of Changabang on August 14, 1975. They were exhausted but exhilarated. They had achieved one of the most impressive climbing feats ever, and they had made history.

The summit of Changabang is a small and icy platform. The climbers spent a few minutes on the summit to take in the view and to celebrate their achievement. They then began the long and dangerous descent back down the West Wall.

The Legacy

The first ascent of the West Wall of Changabang remains one of the most impressive climbing feats ever achieved. The expedition was a major triumph for British mountaineering, and it inspired a new generation of climbers to push the limits of human endurance.

The West Wall of Changabang is still one of the most challenging and dangerous climbs in the Himalayas. Only a handful of climbers have successfully summitted the peak, and it remains one of the most sought-after challenges in the mountaineering world.